Why is the bottom button of a vest always left undone – and what’s the story behind it?

Fashion evolves, but some style rules stand the test of time – like the unwritten rule that the bottom button of a men’s vest (or gilet) remains unfastened. While today’s dress codes have become more relaxed and personal, this one small button still speaks volumes: of heritage, of subtle sophistication, of sartorial awareness.

At DORNSCHILD, we explored the origins of this tradition – and reveal how an open button connects British elite culture, royal etiquette, and equestrian elegance.

What does the open button have to do with British elite style?

One of the most charming explanations leads us back to Victorian Britain – and the prestigious halls of Eton College. There, members of the exclusive “Pop Club” – a highly selective society of the upper class – cultivated their own refined dress code. Their signature detail? The last vest button left open. A subtle code of belonging – one that quietly spread far beyond the college walls.

As many of these men went on to lead in politics, business and culture, they carried the custom into public life. Bespoke tailors, especially the legends of Savile Row, embraced the style – and made it an international rule of classic menswear. To this day, the open button remains a discreet mark of elegance and cultivated taste.

Was a British king really behind this rule?

Another story credits King Edward VII – the son of Queen Victoria and a famed icon of style and indulgence. Legend has it that after enjoying generous meals, Edward often left the bottom button of his vest undone for comfort.

Out of courtesy (or loyalty?), members of the royal household followed suit – turning a personal habit into a fashionable must. Whether truth or myth, one thing is clear: Edward’s influence on men’s fashion was immense and long-lasting.

Could there be a practical reason, too?

Yes – and it’s known as the “rider theory.” According to this explanation, gentlemen left the bottom button open for greater mobility while horseback riding – especially when mounting or dismounting. A fastened bottom button could restrict movement and distort the fit of the vest. Given how central riding was to upper-class life, this practical theory holds a certain logic.

What does the open button mean today?

Today, it’s less of a rule – and more of a refined statement. It blends tradition with modern style, and shows that fashion can carry both elegance and meaning. At DORNSCHILD, this detail is part of our philosophy: our men’s vests are cut to sit perfectly with the last button undone – combining ease and elegance in one flowing silhouette.

And what if you break the rule?

Break it only if you understand it. Closing every button might work – but never by accident. Style thrives on nuance, on the balance between form and freedom. At DORNSCHILD, our vests are designed for men who embrace individuality with intention – modern, confident, and aware of their heritage.

Mini-FAQ: The Open Vest Button – Explained

Why do men leave the last button of a vest undone?
This tradition dates back to the British upper class in the 19th century – especially elite schools like Eton College. It was later adopted by tailors and remains a timeless marker of refined style and taste.

Is there a practical reason for it?
Yes. In earlier times, it allowed horseback riders more freedom of movement – and ensured the vest fit better when standing or sitting.

What does it say about my personal style?
It shows you have an eye for tradition, detail and depth – a quiet confidence that doesn’t need to shout.

Is it wrong to fasten all the buttons?
It can look stiff and distort the silhouette. If you choose to do so, do it with clear stylistic intention.

How does DORNSCHILD approach this detail?
Our vests are crafted to be worn with the last button open – designed with precision, quality fabrics and a modern touch of timeless craftsmanship.